17 Aralık 2013 Salı

Wishing Trees of Anatolia


 Simin Uysal

I love trees and often see them in my dreams. Sometimes they come into my dreams as a singing oak tree, a beech which I climb up to the moon, a pine tree or a fruit tree offering me delicious fruits from its branches. I do not know the number of trees I planted after seeing them in a dream. They are a lot. I can sit with a tree for hours without getting bored, just listening to the sound of the wind dancing between its leaves or simply relaxing under its shade during hot summers.

Traveling in Anatolia, one can be surprised by the sudden appearance of a tree with pieces of fabric hanging from it. They are wishing trees where people typically tie pieces of  fabric from personal items like scarves, hankerchiefs or ribbons. Prayers are said silently while tying the fabrics. You can sometimes see a person distributing offerings to others under the tree after their wish coming true. People make pilgrimages to them, walk around them and make vows to them. These trees are not cut down and protected by everyone. 

The wishing trees typically stand alone, either on a hilltop, in the middle of a vast plane, next to the tomb of a dervish or a water spring. The ones I have seen were beech, oak, mulberry, juniper, myrtle, cedar, plane and pine trees.  

There are so many stories, beliefs and myths about trees in Anatolia and in the Turkic nations of Central Aisa and Siberia and almost all of them can be summarized in categories as the Tree of Life and Cosmic Axis. 

In many ancient Turkic myths (like the Oghuz Khagan) we can see that trees have a role in the births of great men, being their father or mother. Even today, the Yakut turks believe that the first man was nursed by a woman who appeared in the cosmic tree.  
The Life Tree in
Turkish Creamic Art

In Anatolia, people sleep under an old tree and expect "old wise man" to appear them in a dream. So, trees also serve as holy gates for dreams.

Women wanting to have children roll over the ground under a lone apple tree. I was so surprised when I learned this because in my dreams apples and apple trees usually represent fertility.

It is believed that who plants a tree will have a long life and if someone chops down a tree with greed, the tree of his family will dry up meaning he will have no more descendants.

The tree of life is a traditional motif in Anatolian handwowen carpets, kilims and ceramic art.  

When visiting cemeteries, one can see trees planted at the headside (and sometimes also the foot) of the graves so the dead can become a part of the life cycle of the tree and their souls be carried to sky.

Trees are important part of traditional celebrations, too. During Hidirellez celebrations on May 5-6, when Khidir and Elijas meet, wishes are written or drawn on pieces of paper and hung gently on the branches or left under rose trees. 

Decorating trees and leaving offerings under them is an ancient tradition still practiced today. The Turkic people of Central Asia still say "at the navel of the earth and at the center of all things, the largest of all earthly trees grows, a gigantic pine whose top branches  touch the home of Bay Ülgen (the great God)" The celebration of "the birth of the sun" during the winter solstice has been an important event.  The night and the day fight with each other and the day wins on the 22nd December. On this day, the sacred pine tree is decorated with wishes, the larger families come together, songs are sang and offerings to the great God are placed under the tree and everyone eats together.  The celebration exists under names of Nartavan, Raştua and Nardogan in different Turkic nations, all of them meaning "the birth of the sun".  

Sounds like a Christmas tree, doesn't it? This is not celebrated in Anatolia and nor does the Christmas but the wishing trees are everywhere as gates allowing dreams to reach us, carrying our wishes, prayers and souls to the skies. So, I will be decorating the old pine tree in my front garden tomorrow with ribbons of best wishes for the trees, my family, friends and all of life.     


7 Aralık 2013 Cumartesi

HONORING THE WOLF

Simin Uysal

Life can become confusing from time to time and one can feel lost at times. That's how I have been feeling for some time...until last week when I decided to take an afternoon nap. As soon as I closed my eyes in my bed, I found myself in a dream where I was surrounded by a crowded pack of wolves. I have never thought a pack could be so crowded with almost a hundred wolves or so. The pack leader came closer, sniffed me carefully and she was as friendly as a dog. The cubs playing around with each other were really cute. It was a healthy, happy and a friendly pack of wolves. 

When I woke from this dream with a smile on my face and in my heart. I wasn't feeling lost or confused anymore.   

Sitting in my study and watching the wonderful misty view and thinking the snow is getting closer, I suddenly recalled my dream with the wolves and the Turkish saying "Wolf likes misty weather." 

I am feeling deeply grateful to the wolves. The Wolf is considered as the great teacher, the pathfinder and the guide for the Turks both in Anatolia and Central Asia. She is considered as the ancestor and appears as a sacred guide in Turkic mythology. Here is a short version from the very looong Oghuz Khagan myth. 

Oghuz was born in Central Asia as the son of Qara (Black) Khan, leader of the Turks. He stopped drinking his mother's milk after the first time and asked for meat. During the name giving ceremony where the elders are gathered to find the most suitable name for the newborn, he started speaking and said he was choosing his name as Oghuz. After that, he grew up miraculously and only in forty days he became a young adult. At the time of his birth, the lands of the Turks were preyed upon by a dragon named Kıyant. Oghuz armed himself and went to kill the dragon. He set a trap and killed the great dragon with his bronze lance and cut off his head with his iron sword.

He becomes a hero after killing the dragon. He forms a special warrior band from the forty sons of forty Turk beys (clan chiefs) thus gathering the clans together under his rule.

Upon becoming the Khan, he goes to steppes by himself to give thanks to Tengri (Sky-God). While praying he sees a heavenly blue light coming down from the sky, a light brighter than the sun and the moon, with a beautiful girl sitting in it. Oghuz falls in love with the girl and they get married. He has three sons named Gün (Sun), Ay (Moon) and Yıldız (Star). Later, Oghuz goes hunting one day and sees another beautiful girl inside a tree hollow on an island on a lake . He marries her as well and has three sons named Gök (Sky), Dağ (Mountain) and Deniz (Sea). 
To celebrate the birth of his sons, Oghuz organizes a great feast, gathers the forty clan chiefs and gives his orders: 
I became your Khan;
Let's take our swords and shields;
May Kut (Spirit) will be our guide;
May the Sun be our flag and the sky our tent.
He sends letters to the Kings of the Four Directions, saying: "I am the Khan of the Turks. And I will be Khan of the Four Corners of the Earth. I want your obedience."
Altun Khan (Golden Khan), on the right corner of earth, submits his obedience but Urum (Roman) Khan of the left corner, does not. Oghuz declares war on Urum Khan and marches his army to the west. One night, a large wolf with sky colored fur (blue being the color of Tengri and wolf as the sacred animal) comes to his tent in a heavenly light. He says, "Oghuz, you want to march against Urum, I want to march before you and guide your army." So, the sky-wolf marched before the Turks' army and guided them. The two armies fought near the river İtil (Volga). Oghuz Khan won. Then, Oghuz and his six sons carried out campaigns in all directions with the wolf as their guide. He became the Khan of the Four Corners of the Earth.

The elderly wise advisor of Oghuz saw a dream one day where he saw one bow made of gold and three arrows. The bow was extending all the way from sunrise to sunset . In the morning, he told the dream to Oghuz Khagan, saying "Oghuz Khagan, may you have a long and happy life, may all the things the Sky God showed in the dream become true." Upon hearing the dream, Oghuz Khagan calls his six sons and sends three of them them to the east and three of them to the west. His elder sons find a golden bow in the east. His younger sons find three silver arrows in the west. Oghuz Khan breaks the golden bow into three pieces and gives each to his three older sons Gün (Sun), Ay (Moon) and Yıldız (Star). He says: "My older sons, take this bow and shoot your arrows to the sky like this bow." He gives three silver arrows to his three younger sons Gök (Sky), Dağ (Mountain) and Deniz (Sea) and says: "My younger sons, take these silver arrows. A bow shoots arrows and may you be like arrows." Then, he passes his lands onto his sons, Bozoks (Gray Arrows - elder sons) and Üçoks (Three Arrows - younger sons) at a final banquet. Then he says:
"My sons, I walked a lot on the Earth;
I saw many battles;
I threw so many arrows and spears;
I rode many horses;
I made my enemies cry;
I made my friends smile;
I paid my debt to Tengri;
Now I am passing my land over to you."
The story is actually very long and only put into writing during the 13th century. The stories known today in Anatolia as Dede Korkut (Grandfather Korkut's stories) are parts of this legend. The surviving part of the script is now in Paris in Bibliotheque Nationale in the Turkish section. 

The Oghuzes were a historical Turkic tribal confederation conventionally named Oghuz Yabgu State in Central Asia during the early medieval period.The Oguz confederation migrated westard from the Jeti-su area after a conflict with Karluk branch of Uigurs. The founders of the Ottoman Empire were descendants of the Oguz Yabgu State.The term 'Oghuz' was gradually supplanted among the Turks themselves by 'Turcoman', from the mid tenth century onwards. The Ottoman dynasty, who gradually took over Anatolia after the fall of the Seljuks, toward the end of the thirteenth century, led an army that was also predominantly Oghuz.   

I have no intention to fight with anyone in any direction or to rule any place on earth but I do follow my dreams and having the Wolf as a guide and a teacher in all directions is a great gift I am deeply grateful for. 

My version of Oghuz Khagan's prayer is: 

May the Spirit be my guide
The Light my flag, 
The Sky my tent and 
The Wolf my teacher in all directions 

5 Aralık 2013 Perşembe

Grandfather Moon and Moon Gods of Anatolia

Men - the Moon God of the Phyrigians
Eskişehir Archeology Museum
Simin Uysal

Like all Turkish children, I grew up with stories about the Grandfather Moon. When I look at the moon, I always see the Grandfather Moon smiling down from the sky. It is very difficult for me to associate the moon with the feminine. I don't think I will ever be able to do that.

He has always been the one lighting up a magical silvery road on the dark sea waters of the night for me to follow to reach dreamland. I feel safe as long as I know he is up there and he always is. 

These were my thoughts standing in front of Men, the Phyrigian Moon God in the Eskişehir Archeology Museum. I think the Phyrigian children would agree with me. 






Men was a god with Anatolian origin. A temple was built in second century BC in Antioch of Pisidia (close to the modern city of Isparta). Many inscriptions have been discovered on votive stels dedicated to Men asking for help, health, protection;,wishing forgiving and giving thanks and telling dreams. For me, it is most appropriate to tell dreams to the Moon God. I often do that! 

The Hittites had four moon gods. They are Kasku, Kusuh, Arma and Sin. Kasku is actually a Hatti god which was transferred later to the Hittites. On a Hittite-Hattian bilingual script, we find the myth where the Moon God Kasku falls from heaven on Kilammar and disappaears. The Storm God, Taru (Teshub) sends lightning and rain after him.  

The Hurrian Moon God Kusuh (Umbu) is the one who was included formally in the Hittite pantheon. During the reign of the Hittite king, Suppilulimu I, Kusuh (Umbu) was one of the deities of oaths together with Ningal and Ishara. 


Hittite Moon God on a Lion together with another God 
Arma, who is often portrayed with a crescent on his horned cap and a pair of wings on his back, is another Hittite and also a Luwian moon god. The Luwians were related to Hittites and lived in ancient Anatolia as well. Their religious beliefs were similar with the Hittites and the moon god, Arma, had the same name in both languages. Their language is known from the cuneiform texts found in the Hittite capital of Hattusha. The Luwians had a reputation as magicians and their magical rituals were present in the Hittite capital!

When I traveled to Şanlıurfa last year to visit Göbeklitepe, I also visited the Temple of the Moon God Sin. Sin is an important Moon God originated in Mesopotamia and entered the Hittite pantheon later. His major cult center was in Harran (which used to be an Assyrian city), within the borders of today's Şanlıurfa, in southeast Turkey. He is shown riding a winged bull and crescent is his symbol.

Cappadocia, in Central Anatolia, which is filled with mysterious underground cities, fairy chimneys formed by winds and ancient volcanic rock is a famous touristic place. Within all the cave hotels, ancient churches carved in rocks and frescoes, my favourite place to visit is entirely different. There are no ancient churches, frescoes or fairy chimneys there. It is called the Dervent Valley or the Valley of Imagination. It is known for its lunar landscape and animal shaped rocks instead! Whenever I go there, I feel like walking on the moon within an enormous zoo of rock animals sculpted by the nature itself. One can easily see a rabbit, a camel or a dragon on this moonscape.

The moon is not feminine for me, you see. However, it is not a god as it has been for the ancient Anatolians, either. It is Grandfather Moon. It is a lighthouse lighting up my valleys of imagination wherever I am. It is Grandfather Moon where I sit down and watch the Earth from the skies and my starting point for what I call star-hopping! I do not visit the moon everyday but I do love that Moon Face in the night sky and it feels reassuring to know he is always there even when he is invisible to my ordinary eyes.